FINISHING OF A LOG HOUSE

Advice on finishing a log house

Lifeline group finishing products are water-soluble, long-lasting and highlight the natural beauty of a log house. Finishing products are available for both interior and exterior walls.

Why finish a log wall?

• To ensure the most presentable appearance of the house
• To protect the log house from UV damage
• To protect a log house from water and moisture damage
• To protect the log house from decay and mustiness that are not visible to the eye

There is no secret to preserving the beauty of a log cabin. A little care and effort, together with high-quality care products specially designed for log houses, will make your house beautiful, ensure the long life of the logs and help avoid costly repairs.

An application of Lifeline Ultra-2 or Ultra-7 in combination with colorless Lifeline Advance Satin or Gloss top coat and moisture barrier will give your log home the final finishing touch. The advantages of Perma-Chink Systems water-soluble finishing products are as follows:

• The best finishing result is offered by the combination of finishing layers on the log house wall: Lifeline stain and Lifeline Advance Satin or Gloss stain. When applied to a wooden wall, they highlight the texture of the log and the natural beauty of the wood.
• Lifeline products protect the log wall where protection is really needed. The polymers contained in Lifeline products cover the wood as an elastic layer that adapts to the movement of the wood according to the season.
• The pigments and UV inhibitors contained in the stain are important elements in protecting the wood. Although UV inhibitors help extend the life of the finish, it is the pigments that provide long-term protection against UV radiation and highlight the natural beauty of the wood. Translucent stains Lifeline Ultra-2 and Ultra-7 as well as Lifeline Exterior contain necessary and valuable pigments. When these finishing agents wear off the wood, the pigment substances of the agents also wear away. Therefore, when a new layer of care product is applied to the wood, the accumulation of pigments on the wood is avoided, as happens with the use of conventional finishing products. The result - your house will look like it did when you first used the finishing product years later. It is a fairly common situation that finishing products accumulate layers of pigments on the wood, making the house a shade darker every time you apply a new coating to the logs. The Lifeline product system allows you to choose between using a pigmented Lifeline product for a log house or a colorless non-pigmented finishing agent Lifeline Advance, in order to avoid accumulation of finishing layers on the log surface.
• All Lifeline stains "breathe", allowing the wood to dry naturally while protecting the wood from precipitation and moisture absorption, which in turn reduces cracking.
• Lifeline finishes are easy to use, non-toxic, non-flammable and easy to clean with soap and water.

Log house maintenance work

Maintenance work should include the following

• Inspection of the building every six months
• Periodic cleaning of the log house
• Proper care: apply Lifeline Advance care product if necessary (check the need every two years)

Log house finishing products include Lifeline Ultra-2, Ultra-7 or Lifeline Exterior, which are applied to the exterior walls in one or two layers, which in turn are covered with one or two layers of colorless Lifeline Advance Satin or Gloss.

After using Lifeline products, the external walls of the building require only a small amount of maintenance, maintenance work only after 3-5 years. If the local weather conditions are poor or if the moisture content of the logs is high (above 20%), the logs should receive additional care.

A properly finished house needs periodic inspection, which can be done, e.g. during log cleaning operations where the condition of the finish is assessed to identify areas in need of maintenance.

What to expect when inspecting a log cabin?

High demands are placed on the exterior finish. You expect it to protect the building walls from possible damage caused by temperature fluctuations, wind, rain, snow and sunlight. These factors can threaten different parts of your building at different times. Typically, south and west facing walls (which usually receive more sunlight and heat) suffer more from weather conditions, while north and east facing walls suffer less. The lower the roof reaches, the less the walls will be damaged by the weather. Wall surfaces of any kind that are exposed to repeated wet-dry cycles will deteriorate faster than protected walls.

Log ends should be carefully inspected, protected and periodically maintained. The coarser structure of the log end absorbs water about ten times better than the longitudinal wood grain. To prevent problems associated with wet wood, such as rot fungi, wood rot and other wood damage, protect log ends with Log End Seal. When the seasons change, in the first years there may be seepage of wood sap, sometimes even endlessly. The infiltration of wood sap cannot be stopped with wood finishing products. The sap flow can be removed by holding ice, scraping with a putty knife, or rubbing with alcohol.

Over time, cracks appear in the logs. Cracks facilitate the penetration of moisture brought by wind and precipitation into the wood. Water-soaked wood expands or contracts more than protected wood, in turn causing new cracks. Be sure to caulk upward cracks that are wider than half an inch if they are exposed to rain and other sources of moisture. Shell-Guard RTU is suitable for wood treatment and should be applied to the work surface before sealing cracks where water has already entered. Make sure the cracks are dry inside and free of debris.

Notice! On round logs, weather-related damage mostly occurs on the upper side of the outside of the log, because this area is exposed to rain and sun. It is also a surface where airborne pollutants accumulate. We usually notice dirt and weather damage first on the top of the outside of round logs.

Cleaning the log cabin

Cleaning the exterior walls is an important step in maintaining the finishing materials. Dirt particles and other air-borne pollutants accumulate on the exterior walls of the building, which make the color dull and create favorable conditions for the growth of fungal parasites.

Cleaning is also necessary in order to determine the condition of the exterior finishing materials on the exterior walls during the house inspection.

Wash the exterior walls as you would normally wash a car. The goal is to remove contaminants without damaging the exterior finish. The work can be carried out keeping in mind the following tips:

• Strong cleaning agents can damage the finishing layer!
• Log Wash is specially manufactured for such work. When using the product, tackle small areas, because Log Wash must remain on the log as a wet layer for cleaning results.
• The hose nozzle should always spray, not throw a strong jet of water at the wall.
• If necessary, use a brush with soft bristles or non-abrasive sponges for cleaning.

The steps for cleaning a log cabin are as follows

1. First, wet the walls by spraying them with a garden hose and a suitable nozzle. Work with an area large enough to remain wet for approximately 5-10 minutes before applying the cleaning solution.
2. Apply the cleaning solution (Log Wash, Oxcon or Wood ReNew) to the wall from the bottom up. The easiest way to apply Log Wash to the wall is with a low-pressure garden sprayer.
3. After gently scrubbing the work surface, rinse the walls clean of cleaning agents.

Remember: the cleaner is applied to the wall from the bottom up and rinsed off from the top down.

Inspection of the house (every two years)

Some tips when inspecting a log house:

• Make a drawing of your house to bring with you during the inspection. It doesn't have to be detailed, just a simple plan where you can add notes in case some work needs to be done.
• Take pictures during the inspection. It's quite amazing how the eyes can deceive you when something you noticed before completely disappears when you go to look for it again.
• Make a list of things you need to investigate about the building. It's easy to forget what you were really looking for once you hit the third or fourth wall with a sequel.
• Before inspecting the house, it is advisable to clean the log walls.

Be careful when inspecting exterior walls

• Look for signs of dust, contaminants, etc. on the upper side of the log. Clean soiled surfaces with Log Wash (see Cleaning)

• Work surfaces that are more exposed to weather conditions:
  • south and west facing walls, which usually receive more sun;
  • walls facing prevailing wind directions receive more precipitation and dust.
• Look for signs of weather-damaged exterior finish. Common damage:
  • the finishing layer has faded;
  • water stains on walls exposed to weather conditions;
  • wet log ends.

Attention! Ensure that no irrigation equipment directs water onto building walls. Make sure that even in windy weather, the water jet from the watering devices does not reach the log wall.

• Check the exterior finish. If the finishing layer has faded or lost its luster, Lifeline Advance should be applied to the damaged wall.
• When the paint has faded, it's time to apply Lifeline stain with pigments to the wall.
• Look for signs of decay or mold:
  • on the surface of the finishing layer (has it perhaps been washed off?);
  • under the finishing layer.
• Fill upward cracks (0.5 cm and wider) with Check Mate (cracks should be treated with Shell-Guard RTU first.)
• Carefully examine the logs for signs of moisture (charred or softened wood).
• Special attention should be paid to the log ends and those parts of the log that protrude from under the roof.
• Check the joints of the logs and the contact surfaces of various sealants (Perma-Chink, Energy Seal, Check Mate) on the logs, around windows and doors, on the eaves line and in all places where cold air or moisture could enter the building. If necessary, maintenance work should be carried out.

If moisture is a problem, Shell-Guard RTU offers protection against wood rot and insect damage. For more information, contact our specialist.

Use of Lifeline finishing products 

The wooden surface should be treated with Lifeline care products if the finishing layer has lost its original appearance or it allows water to pass through. Remember that it is not always necessary to cover the entire building with the maintenance product. The product can also be applied only to those walls that need additional care.

If the finishing layer has faded and the color tone is no longer correct, it is time to apply Lifeline Ultra-2, Ultra-7 or Lifeline Exterior pigments to the walls to restore the correct color tone. These tools also provide the protection that only pigments can provide to a building. This is especially important for walls exposed to direct sunlight. Then the colorless finishing agent Lifeline Advance Satin or Gloss is applied to the walls.

If the color is correct, but the finish has lost its gloss, a new coat of Lifeline Advance Satin or Gloss should be applied to the wall, and the problem is solved.

Preparatory work

Inspect all wood surfaces for signs of finish decay, rot, dirt, mold, or tan stains. Mildew and mold stains are usually round and have well-defined edges, while leather stains are irregular in shape.

If the rot fungus damage is on untreated wood or on top of a finish coat, Log Wash should wash off such discoloration easily. The only tool that can be used to remove tan stains is Oxcon, which contains oxalic acid. If the color changes are under the finish layer, the finish layer must be removed for maintenance to access the damage. Damaged wood must be treated with the appropriate restoration technique. For more information, contact our specialist. If you notice wood that is severely damaged by moisture (darkened wood, severe decay or mold), remove the source of moisture and treat the wood with Shell-Guard RTU wood preservative to prevent wood rot.

When preparing and applying products to the work surface, carefully follow all instructions given on Lifeline product labels to ensure the most optimal efficiency of the work and the finished product. Read the instructions before starting work.

Remember, purposeful preparation is important because the finishing coat highlights the texture of the wood and eliminates damaging factors.

Old finish coat

If the finish on the wood is very old, you should first inspect and assess the areas of greatest concern. Press about ten centimeters of masking tape onto the old finishing layer. Remove the tape and inspect the sticky side. If the tape has quite a bit of the old finish, it can most likely be used as a base for a new Lifeline finish. If there is a noticeable amount of old finish on the tape, it should definitely be removed before applying the new finish to the wood. Either StripIt or PCSI S-100 is suitable for the job. The choice of product and work method depends on the condition of the finishing layer, the environment on site and the preferences of the operator. Generally, such work involves one of the following techniques:

• pressure washing
• grinding
• chemical finish is removed
• using sand or soda spray

Pressure washing is a fairly common method for buildings that have tight sealing systems that prevent water-borne moisture from entering the house. No chemical agents are used in this technique, but strong pressure washing can leave a mark on the logs or even broken wood fibers. The latter can be removed by lightly rubbing with sandpaper or using a brush.

Lfanning is also a "chemical-free" technique for removing the old finish layer. The disadvantage of this method is that it takes a lot of work and time.

Chemical means use usually requires the use of a pressure washer to effectively remove the old or damaged finish. We offer tools that are relatively environmentally and user friendly. The disadvantage of the technique is the use of chemicals and the after-effects of pressure washing (see the disadvantages of pressure washing mentioned above).

Sanda– and a soda pop use is gaining popularity. The technique effectively removes the old finishing layer. The advantage of this technique is that after the job is finished the work surface is dry and accepts the new Prelude colorless finish very well. The disadvantage of this technique is the subsequent cleaning and disposal of loose debris, in addition, the technique causes some damage to the fibers of the log surface and sometimes also knocking out the surfaces. The wooden surface can be smoothed using the same techniques as after pressure washing.

Here you can find the possible damage and pests of the log house and the necessary work methods, the choice of which depends on the nature of the damage

Graying of wood - Wood graying is caused by UV damage and can be removed by sanding or pressure washing with Wood ReNew or Oxcon. If the wood is dry but grey, Oxcon is the easiest choice to remedy the situation. If the wood is also dirty or oily, Wood ReNew is the best tool for removing contaminants and restoring the wood's natural tone.

Sawmill coat - on new wood, this can cause serious problems for the durability of the finishes. Remove the loose layer with sandpaper, pressure washing, or loose strippers available at your local hardware store.

Grinding – when sanding wood, don't use a steel sponge. This leaves small steel particles on the wood that later cause rust stains on the finish coat.

Rust stains - if exposed wood has rust stains caused by nails, tin strips or other sources, clean them with Oxcon. When using Oxcon, always treat the entire wall. Do not use the tool on individual points.

Fungi and mold - if mildew and mold stains appear on the surface of the finish, remove them with Log Wash. Never use household bleaches as they will damage the finish and the wood. Applied to untreated wood, Wood ReNew removes damage caused by decay and mold.

Attention!  Attention! If using Log Wash, Wood ReNew, or any other cleaner, start applying the cleaner from the lowest log and work your way up. Rinse from top to bottom. This will prevent the formation of "streaks" during cleaning.

Post-finish cleaning

Cleanup work should begin as soon as possible. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations when cleaning tools. Warm soapy water cleans all Lifeline product stains that have not yet dried.

Lifeline stains and coatings that have already dried can be softened with alcohol and then removed with warm water. Used empty containers should be stored in accordance with current waste management laws. Empty containers should never be used to store food or drinking water.

Storage

Lifeline, Acrylic Gloss and Acrylic Satin should be stored in the shade out of direct sunlight and should not be allowed to freeze through. Store unused products in tightly closed containers. We recommend discarding a Lifeline product that has been standing for more than a year.

Important information before starting finishing work

Before starting the finishing work, carry out the wood paints, especially if the building has been treated with the bulk method (in this case, the Prelude primer must be used before applying the finishing layer). The test should definitely be carried out on wood of the same type and prepared by the same method as the walls to be finished. Usually, the rougher the wood surface is, the darker the final shade becomes. If necessary, you can get samples of stain colors at our office.

How to calculate the amount of wood surface

It is easier to calculate the amount of wood surface per wall and then add it up. Start by measuring the length of the wall with a tape measure. Then measure the height or count the number of rows of logs multiplied by the diameter of the number logs. Remember that the diameter is shown in centimeters, so you need to convert centimeters to meters.

So if we have an 8-meter long wall and 16 rows of 25-centimeter diameter logs, the calculation is: 8 meters x 16 rows x 0.25 meters = 32 square meters.

This calculation assumes that the wall is flat, but what if the logs are round? A rule of thumb is to add 25% per square meter of wall to compensate for the increase in surface area caused by the curvature of the logs. So in the example above, if the logs are round, you multiply 32 square meters by 1.25, resulting in 40 square meters of wood.